The Voice and Roots of Our America Today

The root: Where America was invented — the Declaration signed, the Constitution argued — and the cheesesteak was perfected.

Eat: Pat's King of Steaks — claims the original, since 1930. Geno's Steaks — the neon rival across the street. Reading Terminal Market — a century-old food hall with everything Philly.

Skip — don't: Any cheesesteak stand that isn't one of the old names — if the sign is brand-new and flashy, keep walking.

Specialty: The cheesesteak, the hoagie, and soft pretzels — working-class food raised to an art form.

Shops & crafts: Reading Terminal Market — Amish baked goods, scrapple, and Philly souvenirs. South Street — independent shops and punk-rock spirit. The Italian Market on 9th Street — old-school grocers and cheese shops.

See: Independence Hall — the room where the nation was signed into being. The Liberty Bell — the cracked icon of freedom. Elfreth's Alley — the oldest continuously inhabited residential street in America.

Main Street: Broad Street — the Avenue of the Arts, running from City Hall's wedding-cake tower to the stadiums.

After dark: A Mummers-style string band bar or a jazz club on South Street — Philly's nightlife has grit and soul.