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Memphis, Tennessee
The root: Where the blues met the gospel choir and rock 'n' roll was born — and where the civil rights movement paid its highest price.
Eat: Central BBQ — Memphis-style dry-rub ribs. Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken — spicy, crispy, legendary. Rendezvous — the downtown basement rib institution since 1948.
Skip — don't: The Beale Street tourist-trap BBQ joints with barkers out front — the great ribs are a few blocks away.
Specialty: Dry-rub ribs, the blues, and soul food — Memphis seasoned America's music and its plate alike.
Shops & crafts: Beale Street — blues vinyl and local art. A. Schwab's — the last old-time general store on Beale, since 1876. Sun Studio gift shop — rock 'n' roll relics done right.
See: Beale Street — blues clubs pouring music onto the sidewalk. National Civil Rights Museum — at the Lorraine Motel, solemn and essential. Sun Studio — where Elvis recorded, and rock 'n' roll began.
Main Street: Beale Street — three blocks of brass notes, neon, and history, America's blues highway.
After dark: A blues club on Beale — the music starts early and the night runs late.
When — events
Memphis in May — month-long festival through May (approx.). Beale Street Music Festival — early May (approx.).
Event dates are the typical annual timing; confirm with the town before traveling.